PIPE DREAMS: THE FAILURE OF POLYBUTYLENE PIPE

In 1978, a groundbreaking new discovery was made in the plumbing industry. A form of plastic resin known as polybutylene was used to manufacture water supply pipes. Because of the ease of installation and low cost of manufacturing that it afforded, polybutylene became known as the “pipe of the future”. It was installed in many properties and establishments across the United States.

But by 1995, use of the pipe had been almost completely discontinued. It was a massive failure.

What’s the matter with polybutylene?

So what, after all, is wrong with polybutylene, this “pipe of the future”? The culprit is the water that the pipes were designed to carry. All public water supplies contain oxidants such as chlorine and fluoride, which are used to purify the water. This is the water that comes in through the tap and is usually potable (drinkable). However, these oxidants apparently react with the polybutylene pipe and fittings. This causes them to scale and become brittle- processes that weaken the structure and cause micro-fractures.

When breakage occurs, a loud bang is heard, followed by a soggy spot in the floor, ceiling, or walls and by that point, extensive damage will have already been done.

Do you have polybutylene in your home?

Doesn’t sound like something you want to go through, does it? Another question, then: is your system a poly system? Although widely discontinued in the mid 90’s, some builders continued to use polybutylene. If your property was built anytime between the mid 70’s to 2000, it would be a good idea to check. Polybutylene is usually blue (although you may have grey or black as well) and was manufactured in 1/2 “ and 1” sizes.

Outside, the pipes are usually found entering the building through a wall that leads to a basement or running through the water meter. These pipes were sometimes fitted with copper fittings so make sure that you check the pipe itself to make sure. Inside the building, polybutylene is found near the water heater and coming out of the wall to feed sinks and toilets.

Besides the fact that a polybutylene failure will cause massive water damage, it will also keep sharp-minded buyers away from an establishment. In most cases, properties with a polybutylene system take longer to sell and sell for less than those with a traditional copper or PVC system.

Can it be fixed?

With polybutylene, it really isn’t a question of whether or not it will fail. Polybutylene has been proven to fail no matter what; it is only a question of when. That being said, however, there are a lot of myths and misconceptions about the procedure and even the necessity of a repipe. For example, many believe that failures in the system are only the result of poor manufacturing. Although that can always be a contributing factor, the polybutylene pipe is defective no matter how poorly it may have been installed.

Another myth is that polybutylene systems with copper fittings will not fail. True, a system without copper fittings deteriorates faster than one that does- but this does not make the copper fitting system impermeable. It will eventually crack, one way or the other.

Fortunately, there is a solution: a polybutylene repipe. With a repipe, the existing defective system is replaced with copper, PVC, or Aquapex pipe. This can usually be done in a matter of a few days depending on the size and complexity of the property’s potable supply, with minimum shutoff time. It is unfortunate that the system must be replaced, but it can be viewed as being similar to replacing the carpet or roof shingles and the cost and labor involved are almost the same.

In late 1995, a class action lawsuit, Cox vs. Shell Oil, was settled and $1 billion were paid to a compensation fund for those who had to replace their systems. As of 2006, this has apparently been paid out in full, thus rendering additional coverage unavailable.

To put it simply, polybutylene pipe was just too good to be true and now those whose properties were fitted with it are paying the price. Remember these two facts:

1. Polybutylene systems WILL fail, no matter what. Due to the presence of oxidants in any potable water supply, the walls of a polybutylene pipe will deteriorate over time and eventually break.
2. Repipe is the only viable solution to the poly problem. Regular maintenance alone only prolongs the inevitable.

Thanks for reading! Leave any questions or comments in the comment box below.

DUE DILIGENCE INSPECTIONS

When performing a due diligence inspection on your property, it's helpful to work from a checklist. Here are some ideas:

Foundations and Basements

• Inspect for signs of termites and for wood decay.
• Check grading to assure that water will drain away from the building
  
• Check closeness of trees to foundation for problems from roots.
  
• Check basement and crawl space for dampness and leakage following wet weather.
  
• Check driveways and walks for cracks, settling and soil erosion.
  
• Clean area wells, window sills and storm drains.

Doors and Windows

• Check doors, windows and trim for finish failure or rotted wood.
  
• Check for broken glass, damaged screens. 
• Clean screens.
  
• Check glazed openings for loose putty.
  
• Check hardware and lubricate moving parts.
  
• Check weatherstripping for damage and tightness of fit. 
• Check joints and caulk.
  
• Check caulking at doors, windows, and all openings and joints between different materials (such as brick).

Exterior Walls

• Check masonry for cracks and loose joints.
  
• Check painted surfaces for paint failure
  
• Check siding and trim for damage and decay.
  
• Check stucco
• Check trim for tightness of fit at joints and caulk.

Roofs

• Check for damaged or loose shingles, blisters, roofing sponginess, etc.
  
• Check underside of roof where accessible for water stains or dampness.
  
• Check for damage or if paint is needed on gutters, downspouts, hangers, strainers and splash blocks.
  
• Clean gutter strainers, gutters, downspouts, splash blocks.
  
• Evaluate roof for future replacement.
  
• Check fascias and soffits for paint failure and decay. 
• Assure that vents are open and properly vented.
  
• Check masonry chimneys for cracks (inside and outside) and for obstructions.

Interior Surfaces

• Check all painted and natural finished surfaces for dirt, finish failure, and for needed repairs.
  
• Check all joints in ceramic tile, laminated plastic and similar surfaces. 
• Check caulking around sinks, bathtubs and showers.

Floors

• Check for wear, damage, evenness and sponginess. 
• Check particularly where one floor material joins another (e.g., wood to carpet).
  
• Evaluate for replacement or refinish.
  
• Check for handrails on stairs. 
• Make sure handrails are properly attached.

Electrical System

• Check areas where wiring is exposed, and replace at first sign of damage.
  
• If fuses blow or breakers trip frequently, electrician should be contacted to determine cause and make necessary repairs.
  
• Check condition of cords and extension cords to all appliances.
  
• Check smoke detectors

Heating and Cooling Systems

• Have entire system (including gas lines) checked by qualified service person.
  
• Clean, service or replace filters, humidifiers and dehumidifiers.
  
• Unvented gas heaters need to have proper ventilation. 
• Have a qualified service person check.
  
• Remove window air conditioners in winter (if applicable).
• Check boiler operation

Plumbing System

• Check faucets, hose bibbs, valve stools, sinks and water heaters for leakage
• Check for corrosion of plumbing connections and fixtures.
  
• Replace all gate valves with quarter-turn ball valves.
• Have service plumber check septic system.
  
• Check sump pumps and grease traps.
• Look for underground leaks.
• Check gas lines and make sure no material around water heater is blocking air flow.
  
• Check to see that water heater vent is not obstructed.
  
• Gas water heaters should be elevated on an 18" pedestal by code.

Insulation

• Ceiling insulation should be an R-30 or approximately 10 inches deep.
  
• Check attic for proper ventilation at soffits and gable to assure air flow.
  
• Wall insulation should be a minimum of R-13 or 3.5 in.
  
• Floor insulation should be a minimum of R-13 or 3.5 in.